Saturday, 5 January 2013

Tom Kerridge - Shin of Beef with Carrot and Cabbage (Saturday Kitchen)

Here's a recipe by Tom Kerridge from Saturday Kitchen. For me, my interest in this dish lies in the CARROT! Last month I made Vichy carrots with caraway seeds. Here, Tom takes it a bit further by using whole large carrots and star anise as well. The braised shin is quite a standard preparation, but with the addition of root ginger to give some background warmth. I have used ginger in similar dishes and I can say that it works very nicely.
I've got a feeling Tom maybe sous vides the carrot in the restaurant....I may be wrong


Shin of beef with ginger, carrot and cabbage

Ingredients

For the beef shin
  • 6 x 225g pieces beef shin
  • 750ml red wine
  • vegetable oil, for frying
  • 200g onion, roughly chopped
  • 150g carrot, roughly chopped
  • 150g celery, roughly chopped
  • 1½ litres veal or beef stock
  • 5 bay leaves
  • 1 clove
  • 1 tbsp white peppercorns
  • 1 bunch thyme
  • 3 tsp sea salt
For the carrots
  • 5 carrots
  • 125g butter
  • 75g sugar
  • 1½ tsp salt
  • 4 star anise (wrapped in muslin cloth)
For the cabbage
  • knob of butter
  • 1 savoy cabbage, cut into large strips
  • 2 tbsp toasted caraway seeds

Preparation method

  1. Place the beef shins into a large bowl with the red wine, cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24-48 hours.
  2. Strain the shins through a sieve, reserving the wine, then pat the shins dry.
  3. Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/Gas 3. (Tom said to set the oven to 130-140C, cooking the beef for 3 1/2 - 4 hours).
  4. Bring the red wine to the boil in a saucepan and skim off the scum that comes to the top.
  5. Heat a large casserole until medium hot, add a little vegetable oil and the onion, carrot, celery and ginger and cook until browned.
  6. In a separate frying pan, fry the shins in a little oil until browned very well.
  7. When the shins have browned, drain them into a colander to get rid of any excess cooking fat.
  8. Place the shin on the top of the vegetables in the casserole, cover with the skimmed red wine and veal stock.
  9. Add the bay leaves, clove, white peppercorns, thyme and salt.
  10. Bring to a simmer, cover with a lid then place in the oven to braise for 2½ hours.(Like I say, Tom said 3 1/2 - 4 hours).
  11. When cooked, remove from the oven and leave the shins to cool down in the stock.
  12. When cool, remove the shins from the stock and pass the stock through a fine metal seive into a saucepan and skim off any fat.
  13. Place the pan of liquid back onto the heat and cook over a medium heat until reduced to half the volume, then pass through a fine sieve again.
  14. To reheat the shin, warm it through in a covering of shin stock.
  15. For the carrots, place all the ingredients into a saucepan with 200ml water and cook over a medium heat until the carrots are soft.
  16. Turn the heat up and cook over a high heat until the liquid glazes the carrots.
  17. For the cabbage, heat a frying pan until medium hot, add the butter and cabbage, cover and cook until just tender.
  18. Stir in the caraway seeds, season and serve.
  19. To serve, pile the cabbage onto the plate, place the carrot alongside and then finish with the beef shin and sauce.

Goan Lobster Curry - Atul Kochhar (From Saturday Kitchen)

Goan lobster
Ingredients
For the lobster
  • 4 live lobsters
  • 150g desiccated coconut
  • 4 dried bird’s eye red chillies
  • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
  • 1 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 4 cloves
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 2 onions, sliced
  • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, finely grated
  • 5cm/2in piece ginger, finely grated
  • ¼ tsp ground turmeric
  • 50ml tamarind pulp
  • 300ml coconut milk
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves

Preparation method

  1. For the lobster, put the lobsters in the freezer for two hours until almost frozen - this will render them unconscious.
  2. Add them to a large pan of boiling salted water and simmer for two minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pan, immerse them in chilled water and then drain.
  3. Remove all the meat from the shells, keeping them whole - discard the black intestinal vein that runs down the tail flesh and the stomach sac and gills from the head. The meat will just be blanched, not completely cooked at this stage.
  4. Lightly dry fry the coconut in a deep frying pan, then tip it on to a plate and leave to cool.
  5. Fry the dried chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns and cloves in the pan for two minutes, or until lightly colored. Remove and set aside to cool.
  6. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok, add the onions and green chilli and fry for 5-7 minutes, or until light and brown.
  7. Stir in the garlic, ginger and turmeric and fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring for two minutes.
  8. Add the tamarind pulp and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool slightly and then transfer to a food processor to blend together with the coconut milk.
  9. Add this to the pan, together with the lobster pieces and simmer for five minutes, or until just cooked through.
  10. Sprinkle in the chopped coriander and set aside until ready to serve.
  11. To serve, spoon the lobster onto four plates, pour over the sauce and serve with rice or chips alongside.

Nico Ladenis' Cooked Vinaigrette

Nico by Nico Ladenis
I came across this in a Youtube clip. It sounds very interesting and versatile. I don't have quantities, so this will be a matter of taste. trial and error! I think I'm going to give it a go. It reminds me of a vegetable stock (nage) in which you store the stock with the vegetables and spices to infuse.

Cooked Vinaigrette
  • Olive Oil
  • White Wine
  • White Wine Vinegar
  • Onion
  • Celery
  • Green Pepper
  • Red Pepper
  • Carrot
  • Bay Leaf
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
  • Tarragon
  • Sugar
  • Salt
  • Black Peppercorns

Cook for about an hour, then infuse for another hour off the heat.

- Use as a vinaigrette with a little touch of hazelnut oil. (2 parts vinaigrette, 1 part hazelnut oil)
- Blend vinaigrette with tomato for a tomato coulis. Served with a fillet of Brill.
- Blend vinaigrette with orange juice. Served with a warm salad of Sole.

My Baileys Panna Cotta Recipe/Experiment

This is my own experiment/recipe in which I was trying to find the right gelatin/liquid ratio for panna cotta. I had some Baileys left over from Christmas, so I thought I should make use of it in this recipe! I know that a rough guide is about 1g of gelatin (leaves) per 100ml/g of liquid. I have used this before and found the texture ok, but maybe a bit firm for my liking. So, here I have upped the liquid slightly and also added cream cheese in an attempt to cut some richness from the Baileys. Here is the recipe I made up and what I thought of the end result.

300g Double Cream
100g Semi-skimmed Milk
50g Cream Cheese
100g Sugar
4g Gelatin Leaves (Dr Oetker)
50g Baileys

  1. Place the cream, milk, cream cheese and sugar in a saucepan. Heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved and the cream cheese has combined with the other ingredients.
  2. Meanwhile, soak the gelatin leaves in cold water for a few minutes until completely soft. Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze any excess water out. Stir/Whisk the gelatin into the hot milk and cream mixture along with the Baileys.
  3. Sieve the mixture and pour into 4 dariole moulds (about 115ml/g each). Place in the fridge until set.
  4. To serve, dip the moulds in warm water briefly to release the panna cotta and turn out onto a serving plate. As well as releasing the panna cotta, dipping the moulds in warm water also gives a lovely sheen due to the slightly melted cream.

After about 2 hours in the fridge, I took one out and gobbled it all up. Here is what I thought and what I think I'd change;
Good texture (good gelatin/liquid ratio). Maybe a bit of a claggy finish on the palate. Could try reducing the sugar content, upping the milk and lowering the cream. Baileys flavour is not overwhelming, but I think it's strong enough. It needs an accompaniment to cut the richness (perhaps something acidic like lemon, orange, berries, coffee ...?)

After 12 hours in the fridge, I tested another one;
Texture had firmed up. Still a nice texture, but could do with a bit more of a wobble. Next time I will reduce the gelatin content. I think I will try the following recipe next time....

250g Double Cream
150g Semi-skimmed Milk
50g Cream Cheese
75g Sugar
3g Gelatin Leaves (Dr Oetker)
50g Baileys

Overall, this was a VERY good and more-ish panna cotta! Give it a shot and let me know what you think!


Wednesday, 2 January 2013

Eggs

Boiled Egg
Soft boiled - Place an egg into a pan of cold water with a lid on. Bring to a boil rapidly, then turn off the heat and leave for 6 minutes exactly.

Poached Egg
Only use the freshest eggs you can get your hands on. The fresher the egg, the firmer the white will be. This will also reduce the amount of stringy white that forms when you poach an old egg! Heston strains his eggs before he poaches them, which reduces this problem further. However, this may be slightly overkill for the home cook, so just stick to the freshest eggs possible. Poach in water at 80 deg C for 4 minutes. If you don't have a thermometer, poach in water just below boiling point and use your touch to guage when the white is set and the yolk is still soft and runny. This may take a bit of trial and error, but once you've got the knack, you'll never look back . . .

Scrambled Egg
Albert Roux and Heston opt for the bain marie when scrambling eggs. This makes for a very gentle cooking method, stirring constantly to obtain extremely creamy, barely cooked eggs. I have even seen chefs cook scrambled eggs sous vide in a water bath, massaging the bag from time to time. Again the practicality and time needed for both of these methods may not be suited to the home cook. Saying that, I do believe everyone should try the bain marie method at least once! I think a perfectly acceptable method of making scrambled eggs is in a saucepan. The trick is low and slow with continuous stirring. It is up to you to guage whether your heat is too high or if your eggs are overcooking. Be patient and remember that even when the pan is off the heat, the residual heat in the pan will continue to cook the eggs. Near the end of cooking, Gordon Ramsay adds a spoonful of cream or creme fraiche to lower the temperature of the eggs to combat this.

I use 3 eggs per person and start the eggs off in a bit of butter. season with salt and pepper later on in the cooking process nearer the end.

NEVER USE A MICROWAVE to make scrambled eggs, I beg you! This just makes the most rubbery mess ever.

Fried Egg

Eggs Yolks
Mayonaise
Egg yolks contain Lecithin, which is the key ingredient that causes fat and water to emulsify in mayonaise (the fat being the oil and the water from the water content in the egg yolk).

Egg Whites
Merangues
French Merangue
Italian Merangue
Swiss Merangue

Souffles

Flourless Sponges

Mousses

Sabayon

Parfait

Friday, 28 December 2012

Coffee

Espresso
Requires 9 bar of pressure.


Nespresso Citiz
Nespresso Magimix Citiz
I am giving the Nespresso Citiz a mention as I recently purchased one for myself over the Christmas period. It is a capsual/pod machine which uses 19 bar or pressure to extractthe espresso. The machine is only meant for Nespresso capsuals which can only be bought through the Nespresso website or selected boutiques. You are limited to 16 varieties of coffee, but they vary so much that I believe anyone could find a coffee suited for them. There are some companies that make "Nespresso Compatible" pods which can be purchased in some of the large supermarkets. However, they are not much cheaper and the quality is FAR inferior to the real Nespresso pods. I tried a couple of different alternative capsuals and was extremely dissapointed. The coffee was weak, watery and bitter. I won't be purchasing anything but Nespresso pods from now on.

Nespresso Aeroccino 3
The machines operation is very simple and lightning quick (ideal if you are in a hurry). Clean up is easy too. All you have to do is fill the 1litre reservoir with cold water, turn the power on, insert a capsual and push a button (either an espresso shot or a lungo shot). What you get is a beautifull espresso extraction within 30 seconds and a wonderfully creamy crema (the sign of a true espresso, which cannot be replicated with a french press of moka pot).

I picked mine up for £135 as part of a Christmas promotion (RRP £149). I bought a milk frother (the Aeroccino 3) separately on the Nespresso website for £46. This can warm, stir or foam your milk depending on the type of coffee you desire, be it a Latte, Cappuccino or a cold Frappuccino.

Moka Pot


French Press

Instant Coffee
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